"Should I bathe my rat?"
No.
Never bathe your rat, soap or not. While water touching them is not dangerous, fully submerging them causes high stress and can damage their coats. If a rat is dirty, use an unscented baby wipe or a damp cloth to wipe the spot off. Baths, including for elderly rats, are not necessary.
Never bathe your rat, soap or not. While water touching them is not dangerous, fully submerging them causes high stress and can damage their coats. If a rat is dirty, use an unscented baby wipe or a damp cloth to wipe the spot off. Baths, including for elderly rats, are not necessary.
"Can I take my rat outside?"
No.
Taking a rat outside is unnecessary, dangerous, and stressful. Aside from the stress it causes the rat, you risk the rat running away, getting snatched by another animal, bringing in parasites, or even bringing in illness. There's no benefit to taking rats outside at all. If you want to simulate an outdoor experience as enrichment, make an indoor dig box for them to enjoy.
Taking a rat outside is unnecessary, dangerous, and stressful. Aside from the stress it causes the rat, you risk the rat running away, getting snatched by another animal, bringing in parasites, or even bringing in illness. There's no benefit to taking rats outside at all. If you want to simulate an outdoor experience as enrichment, make an indoor dig box for them to enjoy.
"Can my rat wear a harness?"
No.
Harnesses made for rats do not work effectively due to their build. Rats can easily slip out even if adjusted "properly". If your rat cannot get out, it's likely too tight. Regardless it's an unnecessary danger and rats should not be going outside of the house outside of a carrier regardless.
Harnesses made for rats do not work effectively due to their build. Rats can easily slip out even if adjusted "properly". If your rat cannot get out, it's likely too tight. Regardless it's an unnecessary danger and rats should not be going outside of the house outside of a carrier regardless.
"Can my rat be friends with other species?"
No.
Interspecies interactions should never happen.
This applies to any and all species;; including dogs, cats, mice, ferrets, birds, and anything else you can imagine. Larger animals risk hurting your rat and smaller animals are at risk of being hurt by said rat. Even ignoring the potential injury and the fact it stresses the rat out, animals like cats and dogs have bacteria in their saliva and on their claws that can be potentially deadly for small animals like rats. Just remember that no matter how sweet or calm your pet is, it does not mean accidents cannot happen.
Rats are prey animals, and you should never put them at unnecessary risk. For free roaming animals like cats, dogs, ferrets, and birds, they should be strictly kept in a separate room. Accidents can happen through the cage and just the presence of said animal causes stress, regardless of how the rat appears to be acting. It is never worth either pet's safety.
Interspecies interactions should never happen.
This applies to any and all species;; including dogs, cats, mice, ferrets, birds, and anything else you can imagine. Larger animals risk hurting your rat and smaller animals are at risk of being hurt by said rat. Even ignoring the potential injury and the fact it stresses the rat out, animals like cats and dogs have bacteria in their saliva and on their claws that can be potentially deadly for small animals like rats. Just remember that no matter how sweet or calm your pet is, it does not mean accidents cannot happen.
Rats are prey animals, and you should never put them at unnecessary risk. For free roaming animals like cats, dogs, ferrets, and birds, they should be strictly kept in a separate room. Accidents can happen through the cage and just the presence of said animal causes stress, regardless of how the rat appears to be acting. It is never worth either pet's safety.
"Can my rat be a lone rat?"
No.
No matter how much time you spend with a rat, it will always be necessary for it to have a partner.
Humans cannot replicate what another rat can give.
2+ rats is necessary, 3+ is recommended.
No matter how much time you spend with a rat, it will always be necessary for it to have a partner.
Humans cannot replicate what another rat can give.
2+ rats is necessary, 3+ is recommended.
"Paper bedding and fleece are the best bedding, right?"
No.
The idea that fleece and paper bedding (for example "clean and cozy") are the best bedding types is outdated information. Fleece can be used to hammocks and shelves, though it must be changed often to avoid ammonia build-up. Fleece should be avoided as the primary substrate, however, due to not only having poor ammonia control, but also not giving the rat the ability to dig/burrow. Paper bedding on the other hand should be avoided all together. Not only is it overpriced and lacks ammonia control, but it's often dusty (the dust you can't see is what counts). The only exception to this rule is paper pellet litter, but solely for the rats' litter boxes.
Recommended bedding types include kiln dried pine, aspen, equine-grade cardboard, and hemp.
Many sources still say pine is toxic, but it is safe when kiln-dried, which most is required to be today when sold as bedding.
The idea that fleece and paper bedding (for example "clean and cozy") are the best bedding types is outdated information. Fleece can be used to hammocks and shelves, though it must be changed often to avoid ammonia build-up. Fleece should be avoided as the primary substrate, however, due to not only having poor ammonia control, but also not giving the rat the ability to dig/burrow. Paper bedding on the other hand should be avoided all together. Not only is it overpriced and lacks ammonia control, but it's often dusty (the dust you can't see is what counts). The only exception to this rule is paper pellet litter, but solely for the rats' litter boxes.
Recommended bedding types include kiln dried pine, aspen, equine-grade cardboard, and hemp.
Many sources still say pine is toxic, but it is safe when kiln-dried, which most is required to be today when sold as bedding.
"Are tanks okay?"
No.
Tanks should never be used for rats. While they are fine for animals like mice, they are completely inappropriate for rats.
Not only are they often too small, but they don't have enough ventilation. Every rat cage should have a minimum of 4 sides of ventilation for a
non-nursery enclosure and a tank cannot provide this. Lack of ventilation and ammonia build up (due to said lack of ventilation) often leads to respiratory illness and distress in rats.
Wire cages or homemade bin cages are the best options.
Tanks should never be used for rats. While they are fine for animals like mice, they are completely inappropriate for rats.
Not only are they often too small, but they don't have enough ventilation. Every rat cage should have a minimum of 4 sides of ventilation for a
non-nursery enclosure and a tank cannot provide this. Lack of ventilation and ammonia build up (due to said lack of ventilation) often leads to respiratory illness and distress in rats.
Wire cages or homemade bin cages are the best options.
"Height is more important than length, right?"
No.
As much as rats do enjoy climbing, they should always have a significant amount of floor space to run around and dig. This is why a lot of cages marketed to rats and ferrets are inappropriate, as they only push for height.
As much as rats do enjoy climbing, they should always have a significant amount of floor space to run around and dig. This is why a lot of cages marketed to rats and ferrets are inappropriate, as they only push for height.
"Does my rat need a running wheel?"
No.
While some rats do enjoy wheels, they are not necessary. If you do want to buy a wheel for your rats, please keep in mind size.
Adult females must have a minimum of 14-inch wheels and adult males must have a minimum of 16-inch wheels.
The 12-inch wheels in pet stores are NOT appropriate for grown rats. They may work for babies/young rats, but will quickly be outgrown.
While some rats do enjoy wheels, they are not necessary. If you do want to buy a wheel for your rats, please keep in mind size.
Adult females must have a minimum of 14-inch wheels and adult males must have a minimum of 16-inch wheels.
The 12-inch wheels in pet stores are NOT appropriate for grown rats. They may work for babies/young rats, but will quickly be outgrown.
"Lab blocks vs mixes?"
Both lab blocks and mixes are good if done correctly.
For example, lab blocks such as Science Selective Rat Food and Oxbow Essentials Adult Rat Food are the best you'll find in store for lab blocks, but for mixes you won't really find anything appropriate. You can make your own mixes, but they are not required and must be done correctly to be nutritionally complete. They are often not worth the time or money to make as a pet owner. Avoid seed mixes as a whole unless it is being used strictly as forage and not a main diet.
A common misconception is that rats need variety in their diet to avoid becoming bored and that's just not true. So long as their food is nutritionally complete, there is no issue. If you are concerned about variety, giving occasional treats can make up for that. This can be anything, including fresh foods.
For example, lab blocks such as Science Selective Rat Food and Oxbow Essentials Adult Rat Food are the best you'll find in store for lab blocks, but for mixes you won't really find anything appropriate. You can make your own mixes, but they are not required and must be done correctly to be nutritionally complete. They are often not worth the time or money to make as a pet owner. Avoid seed mixes as a whole unless it is being used strictly as forage and not a main diet.
A common misconception is that rats need variety in their diet to avoid becoming bored and that's just not true. So long as their food is nutritionally complete, there is no issue. If you are concerned about variety, giving occasional treats can make up for that. This can be anything, including fresh foods.
"Rats are cheap, right?"
No.
Despite their short lifespan, rats are still exotics and require a lot of upkeep and money. You'll be paying for a large cage, bedding monthly, food monthly, new toys/hides, litter, and of course savings for the possibility of exotic vet trips. They are not cheap or low maintenance animals and should not be treated as such just due to their small size or short life.
Despite their short lifespan, rats are still exotics and require a lot of upkeep and money. You'll be paying for a large cage, bedding monthly, food monthly, new toys/hides, litter, and of course savings for the possibility of exotic vet trips. They are not cheap or low maintenance animals and should not be treated as such just due to their small size or short life.
"Rats are extremely clean animals!"
While it is true that rats groom constantly and can learn to use a litter box for poop, they still need constant cleaning, or they will become smelly and unsanitary quickly. This includes weekly deep cleans, like changing the bedding, wiping down bars, cleaning hides, etc. They can and will pee on everything, regardless of sex or age.
"My rat bit me, is that normal?"
NO!
Rats should never bite to draw blood towards you or another rat. While nibbling and mouthing are fine and scrapes can happen, actual bites are a huge cause for concern. Aggression in rats is entirely genetic, though it can present differently, i.e., GA (genetic aggression), MA (maternal aggression), and HA (hormonal aggression). Any biting rats should be separated from cagemates for their own safety, and you should promptly contact the breeder of the rat if applicable.
(Hard culling = Euthanasia/PTS - Soft culling = Pet only/No breeding)
For GA rats, they should be hard culled. For MA rats, they can be soft culled if aggressions goes away after pups are hard culled/weaned, or hard-culled. (Personally, I lean towards hard culling for MA) Finally, HA can be fixed in males within a certain age group via neuter, however it is not a guaranteed fix and if it does not go away or they are out of the age range they should be hard culled. Spaying, however, will not correct aggression in females.
Aggression is not trainable and can pop up at any age from any "trigger". It's not something to be taken lightly and should be dealt with ASAP. This concerns your rat's quality of life, other rats' safety, and your own safety.
Rat bites are to be taken seriously!!
Rats should never bite to draw blood towards you or another rat. While nibbling and mouthing are fine and scrapes can happen, actual bites are a huge cause for concern. Aggression in rats is entirely genetic, though it can present differently, i.e., GA (genetic aggression), MA (maternal aggression), and HA (hormonal aggression). Any biting rats should be separated from cagemates for their own safety, and you should promptly contact the breeder of the rat if applicable.
(Hard culling = Euthanasia/PTS - Soft culling = Pet only/No breeding)
For GA rats, they should be hard culled. For MA rats, they can be soft culled if aggressions goes away after pups are hard culled/weaned, or hard-culled. (Personally, I lean towards hard culling for MA) Finally, HA can be fixed in males within a certain age group via neuter, however it is not a guaranteed fix and if it does not go away or they are out of the age range they should be hard culled. Spaying, however, will not correct aggression in females.
Aggression is not trainable and can pop up at any age from any "trigger". It's not something to be taken lightly and should be dealt with ASAP. This concerns your rat's quality of life, other rats' safety, and your own safety.
Rat bites are to be taken seriously!!
"I hear rats living to 4+, is this true?"
Don't believe everything you hear online. It's very unlikely that all these people posting about their 4–7-year-old rats are telling the truth. They're likely either lying or don't know the actual age and therefore are guessing. Even living to 3-years-old is rather uncommon, especially outside of breeder lines. Unfortunately it's often illness or other complications, such as tumors, that end up cutting their lives short.
1.5-2.5 is most common and should be expected, though some do get lucky!
1.5-2.5 is most common and should be expected, though some do get lucky!
"Can a dumbo and a fancy rat live together?"
All rats are fancy rats and rats do not have breeds; they have varieties.
Varieties are just their ear types, coat types, markings, and coat colors. A dumbo and standard/top-ear are both the same thing,
just different variety. All varieties can live together.
Varieties are just their ear types, coat types, markings, and coat colors. A dumbo and standard/top-ear are both the same thing,
just different variety. All varieties can live together.
"What's the difference between pet store and breeder rats?"
While they're all still rats, the biggest difference is in regard to how they're produced.
Pet stores typically use mills and unethically mass produce animals for quantity rather than quality, not caring for health issues or temperament issues. Even if they source from a local breeder, I would not consider it ethical due to the sheer number they must produce while never doing background checks prior to selling, among other issues. Realistically, a pet store setting is not capable of ethically producing PET rats. Breeder rats, however, are bred in smaller quantities while focusing on improving the health and temperament of their rats, aiming for pet, show, or even breeder quality animals to sell to the public as an ethical alternative to pet stores. This doesn't mean every breeder is good though.
Be sure to always do your research and ask questions regarding specific breeders before inquiring about animals from them.
This all also applies to rescue/shelter rats. While rescuing is good a good option for a lot of species, I do not recommend it for new rat owners as they are most often pet store rats with some kind of health or temperamental issue, even if the shelter doesn't disclose it prior to adoption. This often is aggression and unfortunately often does not play out well. It's definitely not for the faint of heart.
Regarding "rescuing" feeder/pet store rats- I understand it's upsetting, but you'll only be supporting their business and "rescuing" an animal that will likely come with health or temperamental issues. It's not worth it. It's better to just leave them and look into proper ethical breeders if you're seriously considering rats as a pet. This is just the harsh reality.
Pet stores typically use mills and unethically mass produce animals for quantity rather than quality, not caring for health issues or temperament issues. Even if they source from a local breeder, I would not consider it ethical due to the sheer number they must produce while never doing background checks prior to selling, among other issues. Realistically, a pet store setting is not capable of ethically producing PET rats. Breeder rats, however, are bred in smaller quantities while focusing on improving the health and temperament of their rats, aiming for pet, show, or even breeder quality animals to sell to the public as an ethical alternative to pet stores. This doesn't mean every breeder is good though.
Be sure to always do your research and ask questions regarding specific breeders before inquiring about animals from them.
This all also applies to rescue/shelter rats. While rescuing is good a good option for a lot of species, I do not recommend it for new rat owners as they are most often pet store rats with some kind of health or temperamental issue, even if the shelter doesn't disclose it prior to adoption. This often is aggression and unfortunately often does not play out well. It's definitely not for the faint of heart.
Regarding "rescuing" feeder/pet store rats- I understand it's upsetting, but you'll only be supporting their business and "rescuing" an animal that will likely come with health or temperamental issues. It's not worth it. It's better to just leave them and look into proper ethical breeders if you're seriously considering rats as a pet. This is just the harsh reality.
"What size wire gaps can rat cages have?"
It's best to have 1/2-inch or smaller wire gaps for rat cages. This makes it impossible for rats of any age or size to escape their cage. A lot of cages you see with 1-inch bar spacing, for example "ferret cages", are inappropriate for young or smaller adult rats, as they can just slip out. If their head fits, that's a sign the bars are too big and can quickly lead to an escape. Some larger adult rats, usually large males, CAN live in cages with 1-inch gaps, but it's still something to be wary of. This also applies to hardware cloth on homemade bin cages.
Be sure to get the right sized gaps or risk escape or injury.
Be sure to get the right sized gaps or risk escape or injury.